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Archerfield Cave [1]

North Berwick, Archerfield, Hanging Rocks, Weaklaw Rocks, East Lothian.

Small raised beach sea cave with indications of habitation.

There are two caves at Hanging Rocks, about 15' from the high water mark. They were excavated in 1908. The first cave had its entrance blocked by a rubble wall, in which were fireplaces, provided with flues. The wall had been restored by stepping and pointing. A deposit 10" to 1' deep lay on the floor. It contained charcoal, indicating the promiscuous use of fires, though the main hearth was marked by a circle of stones 10' in diameter, 24' from the entrance and near the centre of the floor. In the deposit were found the lower half of a rotary quern, a whetstone, an iron knife, a socketed spearhead, a whorl, bone pin and button, parts of two glass armlets, also pieces of 1st or 2nd century Samian pottery (now in the National Museum of Antiquities of Scotland [NMAS]) and the neck of a 2nd century coarse grey Roman jug, etc.

The second cave, 10' N, also contained a hearth and an occupation layer from which were recovered a whetstone, a bronze pin, a deer horn pick, the rim of a 2nd century coarse fumed Roman bowl, etc.

All the finds are related to the Early Iron Age. It is probable that several occupations occurred, but lack of stratification in the deposits could give neither their number or duration. It is certain that at least one of them was referable to Roman or post-Roman times. The wall built across the entrance to the first cave might be attributed to any date between the 4th and 12th centuries. [Canmore]

Two caves were excavated in 1908 and found to contain evidence of early Iron Age occupation. The caves are generally as described by the RCAHMS 1962. The second cave (west) has hill wash covering the floor and the roof appears to have collapsed recently. [GUARD}

Cave No.1 - the largest - is on the east side, formed in volcanic conglomerate. At the entrance is a well constructed but ruined stone wall, clearly having a doorway at the centre. Behind it, a spacious cave extends for 14.5 m in a straight line, maintaining a width of some 7.5 m throughout before ending at a blank wall. The average ceiling height is 3.5 m. Although there are no signs of habitation now, clearly at one time the cave was occupied. Substantial hearths existed in both caves (in No. 1 at a diameter of 3 m some 8 m in from the entrance) and Roman Samian ware was discovered here. Coupled with Iron Age finds recovered from very shallow floor coverings, indicated use of the site at times between the 1st and 2nd centuries AD. Other finds include a stone quern, whetting stones, iron knife blades, and pins, fragments of glass, several types of pottery and many animal bones and sea-shells. Evidence from the relic wall at the large cave indicates possible habitation at one time. Thankfully, there is little in the way of rubbish or graffiti.

When first examined by archaeologists in 1908, photographs show that the surrounding hillside on the raised beach, some 8 m above the current shore, was completely clear of vegetation where nowadays there are mature trees. Locals referred to No. 1 as 'Smuggler's Cave' although this was dismissed by the excavators as typical fanciful attribution. Cree observes that Cave No. 1 was almost completely obscured by drifted sandy loam, necessitating a crawl to enter, although once inside it was easy standing height. When clearance of the blockage was complete he revealed the above mentioned wall, more existing than is extant now. It was well built masonry with two fireplaces set into the southern side, and bar holes in the doorway. A window at the north end provided a good view of the beach, but not of the cave's interior from outside. Consolidation of the wall with cement was undertaken by the local landowner, but much has now disappeared, along with a rough party wall on its outside. Quite a large area behind the wall had been levelled and paved with cobbles, also now gone.[Alan Jeffreys]

Alternative Names: Hanging Rock Cave (1), Smuggler's Cave, Dirleton Cave

Notes: Visited by Jim Salvona and Alan Jeffreys separately in 2009.

Hydrographic Feeds: None

Hydrographic Resurgences: None