Go to the Main Scottish Cave and Mine Database Search Page

Staffa [Overview]

Inner Hebrides, W of Mull, Staffa, Argyllshire.

Generic reference to the caves and other significant features on Staffa. Access by boat from Fionnphort on Mull or Dervaig on Ulva. Excursions from Oban generally do not land on the island.

Staffa from Old Norse for stave or pillar. Staffa lies about 10 km (6 miles) west of the Isle of Mull; its area is 33 hectares (82 acres) and the highest point is 42 m (138 feet) above sea level.

In prehistoric times Staffa was covered by the ice sheets which spread from Scotland into the Atlantic Ocean. After the last retreat of the ice around 20,000 years ago, sea levels were up to 125 m (410 ft) lower than at present. Although the isostatic rise of land makes estimating post-glacial coastlines a complex task, around 14,000 years ago it is likely that Staffa was part of a larger island, just off the coast of mainland Scotland, which would have included what are now Mull, Iona and the Treshnish Isles. Steadily rising sea levels then further isolated Staffa.

The island consists of a basement of tuff, underneath colonnades of a black fine-grained Tertiary basalt, overlaid with a third layer of basaltic lava without a crystalline structure. The slow cooling of the second layer of basalt resulted in an extraordinary pattern of predominantly hexagonal columns which form most of the island's cliffs and the faces and walls of the principal caves. The 'Staffa Group' is the name given to the series of olivine tholeiite basalts found in the vicinity of Mull where a massive volcano erupted 55-58 million years ago. [Wikipedia]

The most famous cave is, of course, Fingal's Cave at the south eastern tip of the island, which has its own extensive bibliography but there are at least 28 other cave sites on the small island from Clamshell Cave near the present landing point to Gunna Mhor, a possible lava tube in the cliffs of Port an Fhasgaidh. Along the Collonade or Great Face as the southern cliffs are know, Fingal's Cave at the east end is joined by Boat Cave, Horses Cave and MacKInnon's Cave which is connected through the headland to Cormorants' Cave in Port Fhasgaidh.

Along the western cliffs are a a few undercuts at the base of the cliffs and a few longer sea caves where the waves have exploited weaknesses in the islands basalt. The largest cave, on the west side is Float Cave, a massive chamber hollowed from the base of the vertical cliffs.

Most of the caves around the coast cannot be reached except at the lowest of low tides. Usually mid to late August and require not only permission from SNH and good weather but also specialist equipment (either climbing equipment or kayaks). There is not time to visit many sites in the short time provided by the tourist boats so longer exploration requires a dedicated trip and permission from SNH to camp on the island (this is seldom granted and requirements are strict as all food and water has to be brought from the mainland or at least from Mull and all waste materials including human waste must be removed).

"Wait till you see Fingal's Cave properly. That's the entrance to it there," said Alistair, breathless with pulling. Jane drew in her breath sharply. "It's magnificent! ..." "To-morrow I'll show it you from the inside. You'll understand then why people say its like a great cathedral. That other great opening in the cliff is the Boat Cave. Just round the little headland here, is MacKinnon's Cave. ... There are more caves further up the coast." "Gosh!" exclaimed Jane. "What fun to explore them all." "Do you happen to have brought provisions for a week?" Alistair teased her. " Staffa's just riddled with caves." Fingal's Ghost, 1947. [Tony Jarratt, 2005]

Alternative Names: Staffa (Caves of)

Notes: 1772, Discovery by Sir Joseph Banks.

1829, visit by Felix Mendalssohn.

1833, visit by William and Dorothy Wordsworth who were dismayed by the numbers of fellow tourists.

The cave [Fingal's Cave] was described by Queen Victoria as "extraordinary and splendid with all colours - pink, blue and green - which had a most beautiful and varied effect".

1996, multi-period archaeological survey

2005 & 2006 SNH Baseline Cave survey.

2014, recording of Graffiti in Fingal's Cave, including laser scanning of the cave and a drone based photogrammetric survey of the northern sections of the island.

Fingal or more correctly Fionn na Ghal (or variants thereof), was a 3rd century Irish hero whose exploits were (depending on personal opinion) either depicted or coopted into the Ossianic poetry of James MacPherson.

Isostatic rebound is a form of land movement characterized by rising land in one area being balanced by a corresponding fall in land levels elsewhere to maintain a consistent average level. From the Greek, isos "equal" and stasis "stability"

Hydrographic Feeds: Atlantic Ocean, Sea of the Hebrides

Hydrographic Resurgences: Atlantic Ocean, Sea of the Hebrides